Date travelled: 18-22 April 2009
Despite its recent publicized political problems, Thailand still remains a popular tourist destination for British travellers. Bangkok, the capital city, is arguably the most exciting and dynamic city in East Asia.
Citizens holding United Kingdom passports do not need a visa to visit Thailand, for visits up to 30 days.
From the airport, the most cost effective way of reaching the city is by the Airport Express bus service. There are four difference routes available, and each cost 150 Thai Baht (about £2.80) for a one way journey. Journey times are roughly an hour, depending on traffic. Don't feel daunted by the enormous concrete monstrosities of the city's outskirts. You will soon be greeted by beautiful temples and monuments of the centre.
I stayed at the Sawasdee Khaosan Inn, which is situated right in the centre of the city, next to the AE2 Airport Express terminus.
My visit to Bangkok came just a few days after some of the city's most violent protests ever witnessed. Despite this, the citizens went about their lives as normal, and all the damage caused by the riots was soon cleared.
The best place to set your bearings in Bangkok is by visiting Khao San Road, a backpackers Mecca full of hustle and bustle. You'll be welcomed by the sight of bright neon lights, hearing the sounds of counterfeit music and the smells of the food stalls offering local delicacies. You'll almost certainly find the perfect souvenir for loved ones here, as well as enjoying some local cuisine, or sampling a nice relaxing beer, whilst watching the world go by.
Khao San Road
If you don't fancy walking around the city, mostly due to the sometimes poor pollution levels or due to the searing heat, you can take one of the organised city tours, which includes air conditioned transport. You can get a private tour for around 2000 Baht (about £37), which will take you all of Bangkok's main attractions. I had a guided tour organised by Thai Tour Service, who I must say were excellent, and the friendly, knowledgeable guide made the experience even better.
My city tour starts with the Democracy Monument, built to commemorate the revolution of 1932 that brought a constitutional monarchy to Thailand. The monument stands in the middle of one of Bangkok's busiest road junctions.
Democracy Monument
The tour continues east to Wat Saket, or Golden Mount, a Buddhist temple built on a manmade hill, and offers nice views over Bangkok and beyond. Be prepared to tackle the 318 steps to the top though!
The view of Bangkok from Wat Saket (Golden Mount)
Next on my tour is Bangkok's main tourist attraction, the Grand Palace complex. The complex, originally built in the 18th century, is now the official residence of the Thai Royal Family, and is used for selected ceremonial occasions. You can also witness the changing of the guard everyday around 11am.
Grand Palace complex
Inside the Grand Palace complex is Wat Pha Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha), which features a small but stunning carving of Buddha, which is actually made from Jade, not Emerald. Construction of this lovely building started in 1785, and was commissioned by King Rama I. Due to its religious significance; visitors are not permitted to take photos of the Buddha.
Wat Pha Kaew
Just south of the Grand Palace complex is Wat Pho, the largest Buddhist temple in Bangkok. The complex dates from the 16th century, but the main chapel dates from 1781.
The Main Chapel at Wat Pho
The temple complex also features Thailand's largest reclining Buddha.
Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho
On the way to the next important building of Bangkok, you may pass one of the cities local markets. The smells of the spices are simply incredible, and excite the senses.
A Market in Bangkok
Perhaps Bangkok's most photographed monument is Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn), situated on the other side of the Chao Phraya river. Visitors can climb the very steep steps of the temple, to witness views of the river. Be prepared to be harassed into buying postcards and other trinkets from the local vendors, but a polite and firm "no thanks" always does the trick.
Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn)
From Wat Arun, you may like to take a river cruise, to give you a different perspective of the city. If you are on a private tour, this is generally included in the price, and offers up to an hour cruising the canal network of the city.
By now, you would have visited all the main sights of the old city. The next part of the tour focuses on the east of the city, and the modern districts. The first monument of interest is Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall, commissioned by King Rama V, and built in an Italian renaissance style. The hall once housed the Thai parliament, but is now used for selected royal engagements.
Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall
Further east is the Victory monument, built in 1941 to celebrate the Thai victory against French colonial authorities in Indo-China. The monument is situated right in the centre of the new city. This was also the epicentre of the April 2009 riots.
Victory Monument
If you like your shopping, Siam Square is for you. This area is crammed full of big malls, selling everything and anything. The mall I visited even featured a floor devoted to sports cars!
In the evenings, if you are after some adult entertainment, head to Patpong, Bangkok's red light district, where you can indeed see some interesting shows! You could also return to Khao San Road, where you will always find a good party.
Khao San Road (By Night)
During your stay in Bangkok, you may fancy spending a day away from the sometimes claustrophobic city, and head into the countryside. If you are after some local culture, and local history, I recommend you visit the floating markets and visit the famous bridge on the river Kwai. A full day guided tour from Bangkok will cost around 2500 Baht (about £45). I booked my tour through Worldwide tour specialists Viator.
The tour starts by heading to the western outskirts of Bangkok to an example of a typical Thai floating market. Typically, you will arrive at the market by boat, as road access, especially for larger vehicles, can be poor.
A typical Thai waterway, heading towards the floating markets
The markets are a delight to the senses. The smells of the freshly made spring rolls, along with the fragrance of various mixed spices, will no doubt fill your nostrils. You have the option of hiring one of the wooden canoes around the markets, to fully explore what there is to offer. For example, genuine Thai massages, elegant wood carvings, counterfeit goods, leather products, and various snacks and treats, are all available here. Try to spend at least 2-3 hours here, to fully explore what this labyrinth of treasures has to offer.
A Thai floating market
From the markets, the journey continues west to Kanchanaburi province, and in particular to the town of Kanchanaburi. Here is situated a war cemetery, which include thousands of Allied, Dutch and Thai soldiers who lost their lives fighting the Japanese in World War II. Credit must be given to the Thai authorities for keeping this cemetery in such superb condition.
Kanchanaburi War Cemetery
Just up the world from the cemetery is the Jeath War Museum. The museum features exhibits all about the construction of the Death Railway, built by Allied prisoners of war under orders of the Japanese during World War II. The museum (whose name comes from the five main countries/nationalities involved with the Death Railway - Japanese, English, Australian, Thai and Holland) also includes an exhibit room designed like typical living quarters for the prisoners. Over 10,000 Allied soldiers lost their lives building the railway.
Jeath Museum
The next part of the trip involves a 10 minute speed boat ride up river to Bridge 277, better known as the Bridge on the River Kwai. The original bridge was destroyed by the Americans, but sections were later rebuilt and donated by Japan. The bridge was immortalized by Pierre Boulle in his book and the 1957 film based on it, The Bridge on the River Kwai, starring Alec Guinness. Today, visitors can walk over the bridge, or take a short tram ride over it.
Bridge on the River Kwai
From the bridge, the tour heads back on the three hour journey back to Bangkok. Along the way, you may notice several posters and monuments dedicated to the current Thai King, Rama IX, who coincidently is the World's longest current serving monarch (he has been at the throne since 1946). The King is loved here, and the Thai people are very proud to show that.
Monument to King Rama IX
When it comes to Thai cuisine, you simply must try it. For example, try a locally sourced fiery green curry, along with shrimp crackers, prawns, the sublime sweet chilli sauces or sticky rice served with mango. Bangkok also offers plenty of variety when it comes to beer, with brands such as Singha (5%), Chang (6.4%) or Leo (5%). The local Sangsom whiskey is also something that well worth a try, and is best consumed as a chaser to a large beer. If you are looking for a nice non-alcoholic drink, try some of the refreshing sweet tea, enjoyed either hot or chilled over ice.
I was a little worried about visiting Bangkok, due to the recent violence, but believe me I'm glad I visited. The locals are friendly, the food is exquisite, and the sights are grand. Try to make a visit to Bangkok if you can.
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