Introduction
Delhi
Agra
Jaipur
Pushkar
Conclusion
Introduction
Return flights from London Heathrow using British Airways, Virgin Atlantic, Jet Airways or Air India
(I travelled from London Heathrow using Finnair via Helsinki).
Date travelled: 20-28 September 2008
What can be said about India? The country with the second largest population in the World (over 1 billion people) contains a rich mix of cultures, traditions and religions. To write about the whole of India could easily take a lifetime. My piece concentrates on perhaps the most popular route for tourists in India. Known as the "Golden Triangle", the route covers the main tourist hotspots in India, and you get to meet wonderful people along the way.
My tour of India was with Golden Triangle Tour India, who offer customised routes depending on your length of stay in India, including full transfers during your stay. Their levels of customer service are truly excellent, and yourself and your guide (mine was called Ramesh), will soon be friends in no time. If you want to visit any part of India, these are the people you want to speak to.
All visitors to India must have a visa, and you must get it before you arrive in India, else you will be refused entry. Luckily, for United Kingdom passport holders, the process is quite easy. Thanks to Travcour, all you need to do is fill out an online form, send them your passport and photos, then your passport and visa will be returned to you within a few days. They will also keep you fully updated with the progress of your visa application through email. Prices for United Kingdom passport holders are £77.
Delhi
My tour starts in Delhi, the capital of India, and one of the oldest cities in the World. I stayed at the Hotel Bill Palace, which is in the centre of the city. If you have arranged a tour like I did, your guide will pick you up at the airport and transfer you to the hotel directly. If not, the easiest way is to take a taxi, but negotiate your price beforehand.
My tour of Delhi starts in the old part of the city, known as Old Delhi. The Jama Masjid Mosque is India's largest mosque. Entrance is free, but if you wish to take pictures then the fee is 200 rupees (about £2.40). You will need to leave your shoes outside the mosque, but the shoe minders outside will look after them for you for about 10 rupees (8 pence). Make sure you dress respectfully, so cover your legs and shoulders before entering. As there are lots of bird droppings on the ground in the complex, it's best to wear socks too. The building itself is stunning, and makes a great start to a tour of Delhi. As the mosque sits on a small hill, you also get a nice view over Old Delhi.
Jama Masjid Mosque
In sight of the Jama Masjid Mosque is the Red Fort, a sandstone fortress built in the 17th century by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (who also built Agra's Taj Mahal). Today, the fort is the site from which the Prime Minister of India addresses the nation on Independence Day (August 15th). Unfortunately, a lot of the former treasures of the fortress have since been taken away, so you really only need to see the outside to appreciate the impressive building. You will also get a little bit of hassle from the tourist tours trying to sell you postcards, but just say no politely, or say Sachin Tendulkar is the best cricketer ever, then you'll be fine.
Red Fort
Next up is the Qutub Minar, which at 72.5 metres is the world's tallest free standing minaret. Unfortunately, due to ground subsidence, visitors can no longer climb to the top, but it is still a must see in Delhi.
Qutub Minar
Towards the south of Delhi, is Humayun's Tomb (entrance 250 rupees - just under £3). The tomb, and the gardens it sits in, are simply beautiful, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The tomb itself dates from the 16th century, and has been described as a predecessor or prototype of Agra's Taj Mahal. You may like to take the famous Auto rickshaws (also known locally as a tuk-tuk) to the tomb, as it makes for a pleasant ride. You can't miss them in Delhi; they are all painted in green and yellow. Again, make sure you negotiate your price beforehand.
Humayun's tomb
The journey in Delhi now concentrates in the modern part of the city, known as New Delhi. The Bahá'í Lotus Temple is a religious structure shaped like a lotus bud with 27 petals. The temple is a spectacular example of modern Indian architecture.
Bahá'í Lotus Temple
Not too far away from the temple is Raj Ghat, a memorial to Indian independence campaigner Mahatma Gandhi. It is a black marble platform that marks the spot of Gandhi's cremation on 31 January, 1948. It is left open to the sky while an eternal flame burns perpetually at one end. The site itself contains many other poignant memorials for other important Indian figureheads. It is a peaceful place, and makes a nice break from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Gandhi Memorial at Raj Ghat
One of the memorials at Raj Ghat is dedicated to Indira Gandhi, the former Prime Minister of India, and the first women to take the role. She was assassinated by her Sikh bodyguards in 1984. The Indira Gandhi Museum is a few minutes' drive away, and profiles the former leaders past life. The museum tour finishes at the very spot where she was shot, relaxing in her garden.
Indira Gandhi Museum
Perhaps New Delhi's most recognized monument for foreigners is India Gate, built in the 1920's to commemorate Indian soldiers who lost their lives fighting in World War I.
India Gate
Opposite India Gate is India's parliament complex and Presidential Palace.
Presidential Palace and Parliament
Another must see site in Delhi is the Akshardham temple, which was built in 2005. The temple is the largest Hindu temple complex in the world. Due to security reasons, all bags and electronic equipment have to be left at the entrance, but thanks to its incredible architecture both inside and outside, it is well worth the effort. The temple complex sits on the banks of the Yamuna River adjacent to the proposed 2010 Commonwealth Games village. You can find out more about the temple, including photographs, by clicking this link.
From Delhi, the tour continues to Agra, 200km from Delhi.
Agra
During my visit to Agra, I stayed at the Hotel Royale Residency, which is in the centre of the city, and close to a modern shopping complex.
When people think of Agra, or indeed India, only one building comes to mind. The Taj Mahal, was built in the 17th century by order of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his favourite wife. Words simply cannot describe how wonderful the building is, especially watching it change from a milky white colour during the day, to a golden yellow during sunset. It is simply stunning, and you may say a life changing moment. Entrance to the Taj costs 750 rupees (about £9), and can only be accessed by walking or by catching a ride on a rickshaw, due to the mile wide ban for motor vehicles around the complex.
The following collection of photos were taken within the Taj Mahal complex.
Entrance to the Taj Mahal
Taj Mahal
Taj Mahal at sunset
Whilst you are in Agra, you may like to visit one of the many marble factories within the city. The workers construct all sorts of marble artifacts, from coasters to table tops, and follow the same manufacturing processes as those who originally built the Taj Mahal. You get to see how they take the raw limestone, and turn it into stunning pieces of work. You also get the change to purchase some too.
The other monument you may like to visit in Agra is the Agra Fort, which is quite similar to the Red Fort in Delhi.
Before the tour continues west to Jaipur, we head to Fatehpur Sikri, about 40km from Agra. Fatehpur Sikri, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was once the political capital of India's Mughal Empire during the 16th century, which thanks to its hilltop location, also acted as a fortress. Due to its location on a steep hill, most motor vehicles cannot get to the entrance, so it's best to take a tuk-tuk. Be prepared to be swamped by more tourist touts, but again, just say no politely. If you can, get yourself a guide to explain the significance of each building within the complex. Be prepared to see the bats in one of the buildings!
Fatehpur Sikri
Whilst travelling between Agra and Jaipur, you will certainly notice the brightly coloured lorries, with their somewhat loud horns!
Jaipur
Before we look at Jaipur, we first head to the Galtaji Temple (Monkey Palace), which is situated 10km from the centre of Jaipur. Built sometime in the 18th century, the Temple of Galtaji is a Hindu place of worship, famous for its natural water springs and is set amidst beautiful landscape. This place is a hidden gem, as most organized tours do not include the Temple in their itineraries.
Galtaji Temple
And why is it called the Monkey Palace? Simple! There are literally thousands of monkeys that live in the clifftops here. The monkeys are used to people here, and are quite friendly, especially if you have food to give.
A Monkey at Galtaji Temple
And so to Jaipur, known as "the pink city", and the biggest city in the Indian state of Rajasthan. During my visit, I stayed at the Mandawa Haveli, which dates from the 19th century.
The best place to start any tour of Jaipur is at the Hawa Mahal, or Palace of the Winds. The building forms part of the city palace, and was built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh, and designed in the form of the crown of Krishna, the Hindu god. It is situated by a busy road, so be careful if you wish to take photographs here.
Hawa Mahal - Palace of the Winds
From the Hawa Mahal, we head 11km out of town, and into the hills. We come to a fortress dominating the skyline. Known as the Amber Fort, it was the ancient citadel of the ruling Kachhawa clan of Amber, before the capital was shifted to present day Jaipur. The fort contains beautifully blended Hindi and Mughal features.
Amber Fort
To get to the fort, you basically have three options. You can either walk the steep hill, take a jeep to the top, or the best option is to take an elephant ride (price 500 rupees - about £6). The journey takes about 20 minutes, and you will be offered photos of you on the elephant to purchase at the top. If you want to buy one, remember to negotiate a price! Be prepared to meet more tourist touts at the top, trying to sell you postcards, hats and other souvenirs. I definitely recommend getting yourself an audio guide from the entrance, to explain the significance of each building within the complex.
View from Amber Fort
After spending a good few hours at the fort, head back into the centre of the city. You will probably pass a big lake as you head back into town, with a grand building in the middle of it. This is Jal Mahal, a water palace.
Jal Mahal
Not far from Jal Mahal are Jaipur's many cloth and carpet factories. Similar to the marble factories of Agra, you get a complete tour of the factories, and get the chance to buy goods at the end. If you are staying in Jaipur for a few days, you could get a suit tailor-made, and delivered direct to your hotel for under £100. Rajasthan is also famous for jewels, and Jaipur is full of small to medium sized jewellers, selling goods at considerably cheaper prices to Europe's boutiques.
After shopping, head to the collection of monuments known as Jantar Mantar. The Jantar Mantar are a collection of astronomical instruments, built by then Maharaja during the 18th century. Try and find your star sign amongst the monuments.
Jantar Mantar
Right next to Jantar Mantar is Jaipur's city palace, which contains several small museums, devoted to Rajasthan's military, royalty, and the marvellous room of mirrors. Again, same as the Amber fort, get yourself an audio guide as you walk through the complex.
City Palace
Some parts of the palace are still used by the present day titular Maharaja of Jaipur, Sawai Bhawani Singh Bahadur. Known as Chandra Mahal, or Moon Palace, This area is out of bounds for tourists, but you can still view it from the outside.
Chandra Mahal
If you have some spare time in Jaipur, you may like to visit some of the local markets in the centre of the city, selling everything and anything. These markets rarely see tourists, so you won't get any hassle, and you get to meet some of the locals too. You will enjoy the smells of Indian spices, and seeing children playing cricket in the streets.
Pushkar
Strictly speaking, the city of Pushkar isn't part of India's Golden Triangle, but it's well worth a visit. I stayed at the New Park Hotel, which is just outside the city.
The first thing you will notice about Pushkar is how peaceful it is, compared to the organised, noisy chaos of Delhi, Agra or Jaipur. If you are in Pushkar after the monsoons have finished, the ground is a lush green, and the scenery is lovely.
Countryside of Pushkar
Pushkar is one of the most important religious sites for Hindus, as legend has it the Hindi God Brahma placed a lotus flower into the desert, which became a lake. The site of this miracle was modern day Pushkar. Today, Hindus from all over the world make the pilgrimage to Pushkar and its famous lake. Every year during the Pushkar fair (the night of the full moon in October), the population of the city rises from about 30,000 to over a million, thanks to one of the world's biggest camel fairs, and of course the pilgrimage to the lake.
Pushkar Lake
As Pushkar is a holy city, you will find many temples, tucked away in the back streets of the city. The temple of Brahma is the only religious building devoted to Brahma in the world. All electronic equipment is banned from the temple for security reasons; however, you can still take photographs of many other Sikh and Hindu shrines.
Hindu temple of Pushkar
Whilst staying in Pushkar, you may like to take a camel ride into the Rajasthani desert. For 1200 rupees (about £15) a local will take you on a three hour ride through the desert. This makes a great way to conclude your visit to Pushkar.
A Camel in Pushkar
Conclusion
Quite simply, the Golden Triangle in India is incredible. A mix of wonderful (authentic) Indian food (try the lamb Rogan josh, quite magnificent), very friendly people, stunning monuments and very cheap for visitors, make it a must do for any keen traveller. And thanks to my friends at Golden Triangle Tour India, it's never been easier to experience it for yourself.
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