The Gambia

Please select an area from the list below to read more detail about my visit to The Gambia:

Introduction
Health & Advice
Tourist Information
Conclusion

Introduction

Return flights from Bristol using First Choice Airways or Asteraus (both chartered airlines)

Date travelled: 12-19 February 2008.

The West African country The Gambia was until 1965 a British colony. The country has the somewhat tragic historial title of being one of the birthplaces of slavery. Today, even though this is one of the poorest countries in the world, peanut exports and an ever-growing tourism industry seem to offer a bright future for Africa's smallest country.

You will almost certainly arrive into the country through Banjul International Airport (if you can call it an airport; it is more like a large shed). You do not need a visa to enter The Gambia, just fill out the slightly confusing arrival card in the terminal building. Have a pen handy. Once the other side of immigration, you will soon be swamped by airport attendents trying to help you with your luggage. These attendents may seem imposing, but they are actually very friendly, and give you a warm welcome. Have £1 coins ready to tip them.

You will notice as you leave the airport that every lamppost on the roads are painted in the colours of the Gambian flags, which make a nice sight. You will also notice the face of President Jemmeh on numerous propiganda posters on the roadside.

I stayed at the Mansea Beach Hotel, which is 250 metres from the beach and 500 metres from the tourist resort of Kololi, where there are plenty of bars and restaurants serving international cuisine (there's a nice Lebanese here for example).

Health & Advice

Before you travel to The Gambia, be sure to check that your vaccinations are up to date, and make sure you have adequate malaria medication. You will also need a Yellow Fever vaccination (£40), so make sure you get this arranged before your visit. Also make sure you have suitable diarrhoea tablets, as you may need these during your stay. Always drink bottled water during your visit, just in case.

The best time of year to visit The Gambia is during the winter months (November - March). This time of year is the dryest and coolest (still over 25°C everyday though!).

The main concern that tourists have during visits to The Gambia are from "the bumsters", who are locals that try to earn money from tourists, in whatever way they can get hold of it. These people can follow you around on the beaches, or around the resort centres. The bumsters are mostly friendly people, but you must be polite but firm if you want them to move on. Remember this is a very poor country.

My advice I offer to you regarding the bumsters are as follows:

• Say it isn't your first time to The Gambia - This tricks the bumsters into thinking you have been here before, and know how to handle them.
• No means no, don't say maybe - If you don't want to go on that fishing trip, or buy that souvenir, be police but firm, and say no thanks.
• Don't hand out personal details - Try not to tell the bumsters your real name, or hand out email addresses or telephone numbers. Try not to tell them which hotel you're staying at either.

There are two types of taxis in The Gambia. The first are the yellow local taxis, which to be honest include vehicles that would certainly fail an MOT examination, but are cheap. The second are green tourist taxis, which only tourists can use. They operate on a fixed price system depending on destination and duration (you can hire one for a period of time), and are generally double the price of a yellow taxi. They are however in better condition than their yellow counterparts. These taxis are a great way to see the real country, and have some superb, knowledgeable drivers. Theres always a couple outside every hotel waiting for you.

Tourist Information

At time of writing, £1 will get you 40 Gambian Dalasi, however, when you are exchanging your money, be warned that the highest denomination note is 100 Dalasi (or £2.50), so if you change a large amount of money, expect a wallet full of notes!

If you like your beer, The Gambia's local brew is called Julbrew, and comes at premium strength (4.7%) or export strength (5.5%). Expect to pay 20 Dalasi (50p) in the bars and restaurants for a 330ml bottle, double in the hotels. Both beers are gorgeous after a hot day. There is also a highly refreshing locally made, carbonated fruit cocktail found all over the country. Be wary of the drink Malta, a Gambian non-alcoholic energy beverage that isn't the nicest drink in the world!

In terms of cuisine, most is imported from abroad, because the country cannot produce enough food to sustain its tourist industry. A nice local dish to try however is beef domoda, a dish of finely cut beef smothered in a peanut sauce, served with rice.

If you are staying in Kololi, you may get a visit from a Vervet Monkey. The monkeys live in the park in the village. They are friendly characters that like to feed on peanuts, bananas, or indeed any food the tourists give them. They generally travel around in large family groups.


Vervet Monkey.

In every hotel in The Gambia, entertainment provided by local drummers and dancers, make a nice way to finish any day. Take time to have a watch whilst having dinner.

If you are looking to purchase souvenirs during your visit, there are plenty of local craft markets, selling items from handmade wood carvings, batiks and jewellry. Try your hand at bartering, as the tradesman are cunning characters. Always offer at least a third off what they are charging!


Gambian Craft Market.

One of the top tourist attractions in The Gambia is the Katchikally Crododile Pool, featuring at least 300 Nile Crocodiles in well preserved swamps. These creatures are one of the animal kingdom's top preditors, however with a little help from the keepers, you can get right up close, and even touch them! Just make sure your insurance is up to scratch first!


Nile Crocodile.

The beaches in The Gambia are really beautiful. However, be prepared for hassle from the bumsters. If you have a trusted local with you however, you can be assured of peace and quiet.


Gambian Beach.

As mentioned earlier, The Gambia once had a past linked to the slave trade. A pleasant tour you can take during your visit is the "Roots" tour. Make famous by the book "Roots - the Saga of an American family" by Alex Haley, the tour takes you down the Gambian river by boat to some of the key areas of the slave trade. The book talks about Haley's ancestors, that are believed to have come from the region. The first is the village of Albreda, where resides the Freedom Flagpole. Historians tell us that any slave that could swin the four miles from nearby James Island to this flagpole would be freed from their captors. Sadly most didn't survive the dangerous journey to freedom.


Freedom Flagpole.

The next village just up the road from Albreda is Juffureh. Juffureh is home to a tribe leader known as the "Kunta Kinte". Tourists are given an audience with the Kunta Kinte, who is seen as an important member of society here. Alex Haley believed that he descended from a previous Kunta Kinte.


A Cannon at Albreda.

The final part of the Roots tour takes you to James Island, which used to contain a fortified building, built to house captives from all around the region, ready for their journeys to the New World as slaves. The island was first occupied by the Portuguese, followed by the Dutch, French and then the British.


James Island.

As mentioned earlier, Kololi is one of the main tourist resorts of the country. Other tourist resports include Kotu, Bakau and Cape Point. These resorts are generally quieter than Kololi.


Kololi.

Gambia's most important national monument can be found in its captial Banjul. Known as Arch 22, it was commissioned by President Jemmeh to commemorate the military coup that brought him to power in 1994.


Arch 22.

Take the lift (50 Dalasi - £1.25) to see fine views of the city and beyond.


View of Banjul from Arch 22.

Other sites that may be of interest to you during your visit are the Makasutu Cultural Forest and the Abuko Nature Reserve. Both are excellent place to view The Gambia's rich variety of wildlife.

Conclusion

If you are prepared for the potential hassle from the bumsters, the sometimes upsetting poverty, and are looking for a winter holiday that's simply out of this world, The Gambia is a welcoming option.


Gambian Flag.